PhotoHistory

Complete Self-Instructing Library of Practical Photography
Volume I - Elementary Photography 1909

J B Schriever, Editor

Elementary Bromide Enlarging

This elementary instruction is intended only for those who do not have access to a room that can be arranged specially for enlarging, and for those who desire to make enlargements with little effort, thus familiarizing themselves with the process before taking up the work seriously.

Beginners having small cameras, employing small size plates or films, frequently obtain negatives of special artistic merit, the results from which would be very much improved if they were enlarged to about two or three times their size. This can be done very easily, and with very little expense. The enlarging of the negative itself requires some experience, and, perhaps, a larger camera than you possess, but enlarged prints on bromide or gaslight paper may be made from even the smallest Brownie film.

Bromide paper is a paper sensitized with an emulsion similar to that on the ordinary dry plate or film, only of much less rapidity, permitting of manipulation by a stronger light than would be safe for plates. A clear understanding of the process will be afforded if the beginner will consider the sheet of bromide paper as being practically a slow dry plate. Also bear in mind that a positive image is produced by photographing through the negative onto the sheet of bromide paper, with the negative and sheet of paper some distance apart instead of in contact as is necessary when making an ordinary print.

This process requires some means of arranging the negative, lens and bromide paper, so that the light will travel through the negative and, by means of the lens, the image on the negative be reflected upon the sensitized paper. The space between the negative and sensitized paper must be enclosed and made absolutely light-tight, so that no light will reach the paper except that which travels through the negative and lens.

A simple contrivance suitable for bromide enlarging by daylight is made by the Eastman Kodak Company, and is known as the Brownie Enlarging camera. In it enlargements can be made up to 5×7 inches in size. This camera is nothing more than a collapsible box, made wedge shape, with an attachment on the small end to receive the film or glass negative, while the wide end is fitted with a paper-holder. About 6 inches from the small end are arranged grooves for the receiving of the lens board and holding the lens in proper position. With the lens in place the cone is closed with small flaps on the outside.

The Ingento Daylight Enlarger No. 1, is a solid box made of hard wood. Like the Brownie it requires no adjustment, as it is a fixed focus, requiring only the placing of the negative and paper in the camera and exposing to the light. The Ingento Enlarger is fitted with an achromatic lens and sliding shutter, and will make 8 x 10 prints from 4 x 5 negatives, and 6-1/2 x 8-1/2 prints from 3-1/4 x 4-1/4 negatives.

A more compact instrument will be found in the Ingento Folding Daylight Enlarger No. 2. The No. 2 enlarger works on precisely the same plan as the No. 1, but is so constructed that it can be folded up into a compact space when not in use. It is also more convenient for loading, being supplied with a plate holder for holding the paper, so that it is unnecessary to take the complete camera into the dark-room (as is required with the enlargers formerly mentioned). The holder can also accommodate glass plates, should it be desired to make large positives or negatives.

A more advanced adjustable focus folding enlarging camera will be found in the No. 1 Kodak enlarging camera. This camera is fitted with a good lens and different size stops and shutter; it also has ground-glass for focusing, and is suitable for pictures 6-1/2 x 8-1/2. The front of the camera is fitted with kits, to receive negatives any size up to 4 x 5 inches. Another feature of this camera is that by detaching the front section the camera can be used as a portrait camera all that you will require is an additional lens for this purpose.

Making the Enlargement

First place the film or glass negative in the negative holder, with the face or dull side towards the lens, and attach the holder securely to the narrow end of the box or camera. Next, attach the paper holder containing the sensitive paper to the large end of the camera. With the Brownie and Ingento No. 1 cameras the entire box will have to be taken into the darkroom for loading. With the Ingento No. 2 and the Kodak No. 1 this is not necessary; all you require is to take the paper holder into the dark-room, and this holder can be attached to the camera in daylight the same as on any camera. When you are ready to make the exposure you draw the slide just the same as you would from a plate holder, and after the exposure is made the slide is again inserted, thus protecting the paper from the light, when the holder may be taken to the dark-room and the exposed paper developed.

Focusing

The Brownie and Ingento enlarging boxes require no adjusting whatever, as they are fixed focus cameras, while the Kodak No. 1 is so constructed that by extending both the front and rear bellows to certain points indicated by pointers on the camera bed, you will obtain the largest image possible to make with this camera. When one desires to enlarge only a portion of a negative, which requires more accurate focusing, then focusing must be done on the ground-glass. The lens should be used wide open when focusing. The rear section of the bellows gives you the size of the image. The further the bed is extended the greater will be the size of the enlargement. When you have the bed in position to give the desired size enlargement, clamp it fast, and then focus for sharpness by sliding the support for the lens board back and forth until the image on the ground-glass is as sharp as it is possible to obtain with the large stop; then insert a small stop, which gives you good sharpness throughout, and close the shutter when you are ready for the exposure.

Placing the Camera for the Exposure

In making the exposure it is important that the negative be evenly illuminated, and that it receive as strong a light as possible, but not direct sunlight. Placing the camera on an ordinary table, near a window, with the negative end facing the light, will answer, providing the window is not obstructed by buildings or trees. With the fixed focus enlarging camera, such as the Brownie or Ingento No. 1, if desired the enlarging camera may be placed out doors, set on end in a place where it is shielded from direct sunlight, with the end containing the negative directed towards the sky.

Where the window is used, and should there be any obstructions outside, an even illumination may be obtained by placing the camera on a table beside the window, the camera and window being parallel. Provide a piece of white cardboard about 14 x 20 inches, and place it about a foot from the negative, at an angle so as to reflect the light from the window onto the negative.

Making the Exposure

With the Brownie or Ingento enlarging camera, they being always in focus, all that is required, after loading the camera with the bromide paper, is to carry it to the light with the negative covered with some opaque cloth, excluding all light until the camera is placed in a position with the negative end facing the light, when the cover may be removed from the negative and the exposure begun. The length of the exposure with the fixed focus enlarging cameras depends upon the intensity of the light and the density of the negative employed. With a good light and a negative of average density from 40 to 60 seconds may be sufficient.

With the Kodak No. 1 Enlarging Camera the exposure depends upon the strength of light, quality of the negative, times of enlargement, and the size diaphragm used with the average strength negative. If the small diaphragm is used from 20 to 30 seconds is usually sufficient; if the large diaphragm is used 10 seconds will suffice.

Testing the Exposure

Until one becomes accustomed to judging the exposure required under the different conditions it would be best to use a test strip to obtain the proper exposure. Cut a sheet of paper into three strips. One of these strips arrange diagonally across the paper holder, and expose the strip exactly the same as you would a full sheet, and then develop. The exact time for development of a correctly exposed bromide enlargement cannot be given. The proper exposure, however, may be determined by the appearance of the image in developing. The image of a normal exposure will appear gradually, building up brilliantly and attaining full strength in about one minute.

Should the image develop up slow and appear dim and weak in one minute’s time, you will know the paper is under-exposed. Should it flash up quickly, but appear dull and darken all over, in half a minute, you will know it is over-exposed. A correct exposure will develop gradually and grow stronger and more brilliant as it develops, until the shadows are clear and crisp. At this stage the print will be fully developed. After a few trials with the strips you will be able to judge quite accurately the exposure necessary. In some instances where the light is not very strong, or perhaps the negative is thick and hard, it may require two to five minutes for a full exposure. This can very nicely be determined with the trial sheets. After ascertaining the exposure necessary by means of the test strips, then load the holder with a full size sheet and give the same exposure. It would be advisable when you once learn the required exposure for a negative to note the time on the edge of the negative or on the negative envelope. This will save you making a second test when enlarging from the same negative at some future time.

Development

After the exposure has been made the next step is the development, which is accomplished in practically the same manner as the development of the plate or film, which, of course, is done in the dark-room. Provide a ruby or orange lamp, and three suitable trays, preferably made of rubber and slightly larger than the bromide paper employed. Bromide paper is not as sensitive to light as the dry plate or film; therefore a stronger light may be employed for developing. A small window opening in the dark-room, covered with two thicknesses of yellow post office paper, will answer; the ruby glass may be dispensed with and an orange colored glass employed; or even a plain piece of glass covered with two thicknesses of yellow post office paper will serve.

Developers

For the beginner we would recommend the prepared solution, which is usually put up in concentrated form and requires only diluting with water, when it is ready for use. For those who prefer making up their own developer we recommend the formula accompanying the paper or the following:

Formula:

Water 50 ozs.
Metol 1/4 oz.
Hydroquinon 1 oz.
Sulphite of Soda (anhydrous) 4 ozs.
Carbonate of Soda 6-1/4 ozs.

Note– Ortol may be substituted for metol, using the same quantity.

Dissolve the chemicals in hot water and in the order given, and let stand to cool, when it is ready for use.

To Develop, take 1 oz. of the above solution and add 6 ozs. of water (this is sufficient to fully cover a 5 x 7 print); add to this developer from 6 to 8 drops of a 10% solution of bromide of potassium.

Blue Tones, or blue black tones, are obtained by using the developer as above.

Olive Green Tones may be obtained by increasing the amount of bromide of potassium.

Fixing Bath:

Hyposulphite of Soda 4 ozs.
Water 24 ozs.

When all crystals are thoroughly dissolved the bath is ready for use. To insure permanent results a fresh bath should be prepared for each day’s work.

Blisters will sometimes appear where water of different temperatures is used, but these can usually be avoided by using a little common salt in the first washing water after fixing. A positive preventative will be found by using the following fixing bath in place of the plain fixing bath:

Hypo 4 ozs.
Water 32 ozs.
When dissolved, add
Metabisulphite of Potash 1/8 oz.
Alum 1/8 oz.

The prints should be thoroughly immersed in this bath, to insure proper hardening of the film.

To Develop

Provide three trays: One you use for developing, another for fixing, and the third tray for washing the prints. Where running water from the tap cannot be had the washing tray may be used for rinsing before fixing. After exposure immerse the print in the developer, face side up. The image, if properly exposed, should begin to appear slowly and should develop up strong, clear and brilliant. Keep the solution moving over the print, by gently rocking the tray. When the shadow portions appear black and solid not muddy the print is completely developed; then remove from the developer and rinse under the tap, or place in the tray of fresh water for a few moments, turning the print over several times, after which immerse in the fixing bath. The prints should remain in this bath for fifteen minutes, and handled over occasionally, by hand, to insure even fixing and also to avoid staining. After fixing, the prints should be washed for an hour in running water, or they may be washed in a tray by handling over several times in at least ten changes of fresh water.

Drying

After the prints are carefully washed they may be surface dried by placing between clean white blotters, then laid out on dry blotters, face side up, until they become surface dry, when they may be placed between cardboard and put under weight until bone dry.

Papers to Use

For the beginner we would advise the use of the matt surface bromide paper, as this surface of paper is suited to a large variety of negatives.

Notes

Bromide paper must be placed in the paper holder in the dark-room, by the light of a suitable lamp. Be sure that the paper holder and negative holder are securely attached to the camera. Should any other light than that passing through the negative and lens reach the bromide paper it would cause a fog over the print.

Always exercise care in loading the holder, and before opening the dark-room door, to see that all your unexposed bromide paper is returned to its envelope, where it is fully protected from the light.

Bromide paper should be kept in a cool, dry place, away from strong light.

Judging the Face Side of Paper

The face of bromide paper can always be distinguished by its curling in; the convex side is always the back.

Fog

Fog may be caused by exposing the paper to unsafe light, or by using too little bromide of potassium. The amount given in formula is the minimum that should be used; owing to varied conditions an increased amount may at times be found necessary.

Mealy, flat prints are caused by over-exposure and short development.

Weak prints are caused by under-exposure.

Gray prints are caused by under-exposure and forced development.

Greenish tones are caused by over-exposure and too much bromide.

Judging When Prints Are Fixed

The prints are fixed when looking through them to the light they appear even and transparent. Unfixed portions will be a greenish yellow.